[Tiger 321]
Details - Hull Rear
Exhaust Bottom

After carefully cleaning and reshaping the recess in the exhaust, the bottom cover was test fitted to make sure it seated correctly. JB Weld was applied to the assembly and allowed to stand on a plastic cut from a disposable food storage bin.

Once the JB Weld had cured, the plastic sheet was removed leaving a nice clean edge for the exhaust bottom. A little sanding was needed to clean up the edges.

Exhaust Armor

The real Tiger used studs to mount the exhaust armor to the rear hull. To simulate this, M3 * 25 hex cap screws were inserted from the interior and finished off with M3 hex nuts on the outside. (Pack 12)

Notice the two top holes missing from the rear plate to mount the exhaust shield.

Exhaust Cover
A square nut or standoff's were originally welded to the hull of the Tiger I for mounting the exhaust cover. This cover was not bolted directly to the hull. I got a set of standoff's from Vince Abbott.
A #8 (.199") bit was used to drill holes 8mm deep. Epoxy was then applied to seal the standoff in the hole. M3 * 8 hex head bolts were inserted from the interior to secure the standoff's to the hull. For the top row, M3 * 8 socket head screws were used.
The exhaust cover bolted to the standoff's with M3 * 8 hex head bolts, The real Tiger also used square washers, simulated here using a brass strip, cut and drilled. Click here for a good reference picture from the Tiger I in Vimoutier, France. (Pack 12)
Exhaust Caps
Caps and blanks for the exhaust. Reference pictures are hard to find for the caps, but they may have used bolts instead of nuts and definitely not threaded rod. I'll cover using 1/8inch brass rod and small hex head bolts soon...
Exhaust Cover Modification
This modification adds more detail to the exhaust cover (CE0321 & CE0321_M) by adding the reinforcement ridge to the top and bottom edge. I went a step further and added a dent which was a common field damage. If you have not used silver solder before, practice on a piece of scrap steel. The areas to be solder must be very clean and completely coated with flux. It was easy, but a little solder goes a long way. It will file easily if you put too much silver solder on.

Original Armortek exhaust cover doesn't have the bead at the top and bottom edge.


To create the dent, I mounted the cover to a piece of wood and pushed a steel bar into the bottom edge. I was careful not to press too far.

Using alligator clips, clamped 14 gauge half-round brass wire 7mm from edge and silver soldered. Bought the wire from the Wig Jig Store.


Then the cover was bead blasted, and primered.

Both exhaust covers bolted to the rear. These were often damaged during use. Compare the dented cover to the picture on page 63 in the book, 'Tigers on the Western Front', by Jean Restayn.
The upper section of the Armortek supplied exhaust covers are too short. This is not an easy thing to fix. Vince offers a new set, complete with a pressed reinforcement ridge at the top and bottom. Here is a comparison of the two with the original on the right and new one from Vince on the left. Notice the pressed ridge as seen from the inside.
Jack Bracket
The jack mounting brackets are secured with M3*16 hex head bolts to the rear hull plate. The jack and brackets as supplied are not accurate looking but will provide an opportunity to super detail later.