[Tiger 321]
Building the Rear Deck (Packs 2, 4, and 25)
These are the LH/RH side mid and rear covers. A 4 x 162 hinge pin is used to attach each of the rear covers to the mid cover. The pin ends stick out a little and should be cut to fit. Some filing was needed to get the pin inserted.
The term 'some filing' may at times be an understatement. With the pin inserted into the side rear cover, the misalignment of the hinge holes can be seen here.
Another area that needs filing is at the base of the rear cover. The step needs to be removed to allow the cover to swing open properly without hitting the deck.
Top view of all the rear covers positioned on the deck with the M3 cap head screws supplied by Armortek. Notice the orientation of the engine hatch, the two deck hook mounting holes need to be on the right side.
Close view of the left side covers. The front and sides of the covers are mounted to the using M3 * 12 cap head screws. The Armortek instructions call for M3 * 12 cap heads for the front edge of center side covers, but they are too short, use M3 * 14 cap heads instead (highlighted in yellow, not supplied in kit).
The rear center cover closeup. M3 * 12 cap head screws are used on leading and side edges, M3 * 20 on thicker rear edge.
The Armortek instructions are vague about how the metal handles are attached to the rear engine hatch (CE0116/Pack 4). MIG welding the handles was easy and permanent. I first cleaned the area and drilled countersunk holes (on the bottom side) for the weld to get into.
To ensure the grabs handles were even over the hatch, I clamped two metal bars as spacers under each grab handle (CE0622 / Pack 25)
Any extra weld underneath was ground down and smoothed out. Primer is all that was needed.
The rear engine hatch hinges were cleaned up with a file. The holes for the hinge pins were filed to allow the pin to move easily. The hinge base didn't rest flush on the rear engine cover, so I filed the hinge holes open to provide some play. The pin holes on the rear center cover were left tight to hold the pin in place.
With the pins in place and all the parts in place, mark from underneath the hinge base and drill/tap holes for M3 screws. I used countersunk screws. Remaining holes to be filled in when screws are permanently fitted.